Sunday, December 30, 2012

Minnow (generic)




Remove a couple of STIM-U-DENTS from the package and position 1 on top of the hook shank as shown, approximately at the barb of the hook.


Switch hands and continue to hold the tooth pick. Mark the tooth pick for length and for the forward shape of the body as shown.



Transfer the measurement to the other tooth pick and tie the tooth picks onto the hook shank. At this time you can head cement the entire body if desired. Then tie in the marabou tail. Tying Note: you could add flat strips of lead (such as TWISTONS) along the body or a piece of lead wire along the under side of the body for a weighted version.


Tie in a strip of bills body braid (green for the back) and a strip of bills body braid (silver or pearl for the body).


Wrap the silver braid forward and tie off. Pull the back braid forward over the top of the body and tie off.


Add eyes and whatever marking you want with the acrylic paint and let dry. Coat the body of the fly with a UV resin or epoxy. overcoat with sally hansens hard as nail polish if necessary.


Minnow (generic)

Hook: your favorite and size
Thread: 6/0 white or clear mono
Under body: shaped stim-u-dent tooth picks
Tail: marabou
Back: bills body braid or equivalent
Over body: bills body braid or equivalent
Eyes and body markings: acrylic paint
Coating: uv resin, epoxy and sally hansens hard as nails

The shown above recipe is merely a suggestion of what to use. As a creative tyer you have the option to switch items in the recipe to suit your needs or material supply.

Weighting Options





An older fly pattern known as the "JANSSEN MINNOW" can be tied in this manner. Paint up your minnow to look like them or be creative.


Thanks for looking.

New Years Resolution

For the new year I have decided to declutter my fly tying area/computer room. I have had some old computer hard drives on a shelf that were just collecting dust. I finally took them apart and completely destroyed them so nobody else could retrieve any of my personal data from them. Old unused routers were also taken apart and thrown in the recycle bin however not all at once. Some parts went in the bin one week and then other parts went in the bin on other weeks.

Books that I have read are going to be donated to my local library.

I really do have too much fly tying materials! Time to go through each Sterilite plastic shoe box and get rid of materials that I don't need or just haven't used in years.

I also have a Sterilite plastic shoe box full of flies from various fly swaps that I have participated in. I think I'll make up a few dozen flies and give them away to someone who could use them.

Then there are the fly rods that I have never used. Some of them are going to be sold or donated.

DuBois Hackle Gauge

I was lurking on Ebay one evening and I spied an item called the "Du Bois Fly Fisherman's & Fly Tier's Gauge". I am familiar with other types of hackle gauges but I had never heard about this on so I ended up buying it for a reasonable price. This gauge is multi functional as opposed to other hackle gauges. It allows you to check on hook sizes, wet and dry tail length, wet and dry hackle length and wet and dry wing lengths. All in one gauge. Simple enough.

The gauge comes in a clear plastic protective sleeve and an instruction sheet on how to use the gauge.


Hackle Gauge


Instruction Sheet











Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Tying Tip #12 - Behind the Eye

All new tiers and some experienced tiers as well are guilty of not leaving enough room behind the eye of the hook to complete the head of the fly. Take your time and start your tying thread approximately 1 eye length behind the eye as shown below..Finish the flies body, including any hackle as in a dry fly at the initial tie in point. The remaining bare shank is for the head and whip finish.




As always, thanks for looking.


Saturday, December 22, 2012

Happy Holidays


Happy Holidays to all of the followers and wanderers who happen to stop by my blog.

I will be back after the Holidays.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Fly Fishing is a Joke

Fly Fishing is a Joke from Henry Harrison on Vimeo.

Montana Fly Fishing Magazine



Tying Tip #11 - Recreating a Fly Pattern from Memory

I recently saw this on a fly tying forum. The tyer saw a pattern in a fly bin, got home and recreated it by memory and then asked other forum members if they knew the name of the pattern.

If you want to recreate that fly pattern you saw in whatever kind of shop you saw it in, buy 1-3 flies to have as samples and/or to deconstruct a fly to see how the pattern was tied. Shops will usually have the condiment cups or zip lock baggies to put flies in. Jot down the pattern name, size and where you bought it from for future reference. When you get home, take one out and photograph it for additional reference.

Don't try to go by memory after you get home.



Great for holding samples.




Friday, December 14, 2012

The Fly Fishing Show

With January 2013 just around the corner, its that time again to start thinking of all of the new fly fishing/tying toys to buy and or try out. You may even consider taking a tying class to improve on your tying or help out that cast with a casting class. Watch some of the best fly tyers in Tyers Row.Watch some of the best casters in the casting pool. Attend a seminar etc.



Monday, December 10, 2012

Brooks Stonefly (Variant)

Charlie Brooks stonefly is one of those patterns that is tied "in the round" style. No matter how the fly drifts, it looks the same.

The fly that I tied is simple a revised version of the original pattern and does not have the biot tail or the ostrich herl gills. I merely simplified the fly to my tastes.

Wrap the hook with lead/non lead wire. The number of turns is entirely up to you. More weight = a heavier fly which will drift deeper. I like to wrap my tying thread at about a 45 degree angle on the lead wraps. I build a small dam of thread at bend side of the lead to hold the lead in that position on the shank and then I spiral wrap the thread forward to the eye of the hook. Once there I will build another dam of thread to lock in the lead wraps in its position on the shank.


Cover the lead wraps with as many thread wraps of your choosing. I just wrap up and down the lead a few times. If you like to add head cement to the area you can do so. I don't feeel its necessary as I have anchored the lead wraps tightly.


The original pattern calls for biots for the tail but to simplify, I am using pheasant tail. Tie it in and trim off the waste.


The next item to tie in is a wire rib. I used a "hot orange" color for the rib.


Dub the thread with your favorite stonefly blend and color of dubbing.


Wrap the wire rib forward and trim off the waste.


Tie in the hackle at the rear of the thorax. I'm using a grizzly hackle in a color that looks like "cree". A dyed brown grizzly would also be acceptable.


Dub the thorax area of the fly with the same dubbing as the abdomen.


Wrap the hackle through the thorax, tie off the hackle and trim the waste. Whip finish or half hitch the head and apply your head cement if desired.


As always, thanks for looking.