Saturday, March 25, 2017

Pinedale Floater, Light & Dark


Pinedale Floater, Light

Hook: Dry fly
Thread: Tan
Tail & Body: Light tan elk hair. Body & tail are fashioned from a single bunch of hair, and body is wrapper in a criss-cross from front to rear and back to the front.
Hackle: Light ginger

Pinedale Floater, Dark

Hook: Dry fly
Thread: Brown
Tail & Body: Brown elk hair. Body & tail are fashioned from a single bunch of hair, and body is wrapper in a criss-cross from front to rear and back to the front.
Hackle: Dark ginger

Reference: Popular Fly Patterns by Terry Hellekson

Fly Fishing Rocky Mountain National Park


Friday, March 24, 2017

Zug Bug


ZUG BUG

Hook: TMC 3761 #10-16
Thread: Black 
Weighted: Leadfree Wire
Tail: Peacock Sword Fibers
Ribbing: Oval Silver Tinsel
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Brown Hackle
Wingcase: Lemon Wood Duck, Clipped

Thursday, March 23, 2017

Timely Tying Tips

When using marabou, wet it first. It will be easier to handle.

Use a sharp blade like a scalpel blade or razor blade, instead of scissors, to cut the tensioned thread after making a whip finish. That way you only cut the thread and not the hackle fibers.

Another variation is to keep the thread tight and use the "V" of the scissors to cut, same principle and safer

Replace the lids on bottles of head cement etc as soon as you’re finished using it
         
Add a small amount of head cement to the thread just before whip finishing . This saves you getting head cement on the hackles when finishing the small dry fly.

Wet you finger tips before adding dubbing to the thread 
    
"Measure twice, cut one" particularly when making wings from quill feathers.
   
 When dubbing, pick out how much you think you need for the fly, then reduce it in half.
            
If your hackle pliers are slipping, glue a thin piece of rubber band to the inside of the blade to hold the feathers securely.

I would recommend a beginner to wax their thread and no need razor blades to cut your thread after whip finishing, just keep the thread under tension and push your scissor tips into it.

When tying in deer hair use 2-3 pinching loops then if you want it to spin it tighten by pulling thread down and if you want to tie in as a wing pull thread upwards to hold in place

Every single turn of the thread better have a damn good reason for being there.

Tie flies in batches. This will lead to greater consistency and you don't waste as much time handling different materials.

Wind rib material the opposite way to the feather fiber etc underneath so that it secures it more effectively.

When tying in chenille etc strip the material from the core with your finger nails.

When coating buzzers, 4 coats of Sally Hansen’s gives the right degree of coverage.

Learn to whip finish with your fingers.

Save those chip bags. They can make excellent tinsel in an array of colors. Great for body material too!

Always have a look in your local big box craft shop, home center, department store or dollar store. 
You can find some interesting fly tying materials at a fraction of the price you’ll pay in a fly shop.

ALWAYS keep materials you don’t want bugs to get into in the original sealed plastic bags they came in.

Peacock herl is brittle – always rib with wire or make a rope around your thread.

A frequent half hitch will stop things becoming undone.

Tie in game feathers such as partridge by the tip as the stalk is too large.

Leave plenty of room for your head (I’m guilty of not doing this)

Save the old appliance cords and cut them to approximately 6-8 inches long. Strip away a few of inches of the insulation to expose the fine copper wire inside. Great for ribbing wire

You CAN use your expensive scissors to cut wire! Just cut wire close to the pivot area.

Use what ever kind of feather is lying around your tying area to clean out the head cement from the 
hook eye. Many other tying items can also be used to accomplish a clean hook eye

Thread tension is very important. Try to tie with the thread at 90% breaking strain.

2 tight turns of thread are better than 6 slack ones.

When tying with flat stick on eyes, bending them into a vee shape like this < will make installing them onto a rounded head much easier. After they are installed, I will make an x wrap with clear mono thread and then coat with epoxy or the current goos on the market. The mono will disappear, the eyes are held on tight and the epoxy or goo makes a nice head.

Break your thread! Get to know how much pressure you can apply to your tying thread by making it break. If it does break, don’t panic! Simply attach your hackle pliers to the broken end, unwrap a bit and then reattach your tying thread

When tying deer hair wings a couple of loose wraps around base of wing prior to fixing it in position prevents unwanted flare.      

Keep pets especially puppies away from fly tying tables and materials. Genetic capes seem to taste best.

A stick with a magnet taped to one end or a telescoping magnetic wand is the easiest way to find stray hooks and flies on the floor.

Sharpen fly tying scissors by taking kitchen aluminum foil and folding so that it is four layers thick. 
Use scissors to make about 10 cuts with the full length of the blades ...... give the tips another 5 snips. Bingo sharp scissors again.

Peacock herl! Tie one in at the eye and one at the tail; take your thread back to the eye. Wind the herl at the eye to the bend and then secure this by winding the tail herl to the head, then secure with thread wraps.

Wet your fingers when handling Goose biots. They'll stay in between your fingers and save you the embarrassment of swearing at yourself.

When using Holo tinsel and UV strands as a rib. Place the UV on top of the Holo tinsel. On a bright day the tinsel glistens and when overcast or in low light the UV glows. Works brilliantly on a Diawl!    

Do you want your dry flies to float all day and do so after catching fish? Use Scotchgard. Only use this as a pretreatment on batches of new flies and do not over do it. Let them dry for a couple of days.     

You can also convert your articulated reading/fly tying lamp into a gallows tool with the aid of a child’s hair band and a spare hackle pliers.

If you ever need emerald green tinsel, take a piece of pearl put a weight on each end and cover the pearl using a black marker pen. When dry, turn it over you’ll have emerald green.

Thread control. Use thinner thread where possible.

Modern bobbin holders and plastic spools have very little weight to hang and hold mid-tie when winding ribs and hackles etc. Put a piece of lead or brass rod which will fit within the spool between the holding axels to give weight.

Use ceramic tip bobbin holders. It will greatly reduce swearing

A bit of Velcro super glued onto a cocktail stick makes a lovely dubbing brush

Keep most things JUST out of reach, You get some exercise with a good old stretch and are less likely to knock things off the work surface. 

A washed out mascara brush makes a more delicate dubbing brush

When tying in deer hair wings, use you dubbing needle to work a bit of head cement into the butt ends before binding down on them. They'll last much longer.

When tying in herl bodies, wind them onto wet head cement. They'll last much longer.

Do not be afraid to bend the hook to suit the pattern you are tying. Just don't over do it.

Monday, March 20, 2017

Wash your Bucktail


Washing your bucktails will get rid of excess dye and also smell a whole lot better!

Airhead



Airhead

Hook: Bass
Thread: Yellow
Body: Dubbing of your choice
Wing: Deer, elk etc
Head: Foam strips tied bullethead style

Cocky Nymph


Original recipe is in the following link

http://www.fishandboat.com/Transact/AnglerBoater/LegacyIssues/1960s/Documents/06june1967.pdf

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Learn a New Tying Technique

I've been tying flies for 35+ years and I certainly dont know every fly tying technique. And neither do you.

So every now and then I take out "The Fly Tyers Benchside Reference" book and learn a new tying technique.





















I dont necessarily tie a finished fly but just try to master the technique to the best of my availabily.If it doesnt come out correctly you can always unwind everything and start over or just cut everything off of the hook.

Give a new technique a try. You can do it if you really try!

Double Bead Midges



Double Bead Midges

Hook: Straight or curved
Bead: Your choice
Thread: Your choice of size & color

Be creative. Use krystal flash, wire, liquid lace, hairs etc for the body. Use different colors of beads,

Saturday, March 18, 2017

Baker's Hole Bugger


Baker's Hole Bugger

Hook: Nymph/Streamer
Thread: Brown
Weight: Lead or lead free wire
Tail: Brown marabou; Krystal flash; Yellow marabou
Rib: Gold wire
Hackle: Grizzly
Body: Yellow/brown variegated chenille

Golden Eagle


Golden Eagle

Hook: Partridge CS17 Ken Baker
Thread: Black 8/0
Tag: Gold oval tinsel
Butt: Black ostrich herl
Body: Gold embossed tinsel
Rib: Gold oval tinsel
Wing: Pearl micro crystal flash then yellow bucktail
Head: Black

Wyoming Mickey Finn #1 & #2


Wyoming Mickey Finn #1

Body: Gold Tinsel
Wing: Red & yellow hair; mixed
Shoulder: Jungle cock
Head: Red laquered with white eyes & red pupil



Wyoming Mickey Finn #2

Body: Gold Tinsel
Wing: Red & yellow hair; mixed
Shoulder: Jungle cock body feather
Head: Red laquered with white eyes & red pupil

Tying note: I substituted 2 strands of twisted gold wire for the body for added flash

Reference: Forgotten Flies

Friday, March 17, 2017

Nothing


Nothing

Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Tail: White calf tail
Body: White yarn
Wing: White calf tail

White Miller


White Miller

Hook: Wet fly
Thread: White under floss body; black head
Tag: Silver tinsel
Rib: Silver tinsel
Body: White floss
Throat: White hackle fibers
Wing: White duck quill slips

Marcy Dam Mayhem (MDM Bucktail)



Marcy Dam Mayhem (MDM Bucktail)

Hook: Streamer hook, size #12
Thread: Black
Wing: White bucktail
Throat: Red bucktail
Rib: Small gold wire
Body: Uni-Floss, orange and overlaid back with peacock herl
Tail: Golden pheasant tippet feather

Thursday, March 16, 2017

.56%er (Tom Nixon)


.56%er

Hook: #8 down to #16 4X long
Thread: Black
Tail: Lemon colored wood duck side feather fibers
Body: Oxford gray yarn with a yellow yarn belly stripe
Hackle: Grizzly, stripped on one side


The fly should be weighted with 10 turns of #25 lead wire (recommended for a #10 hook, weight should be adjusted proportionately for other hook sizes). The body should appear long and lean. The hackle should be tied in by the tip at the bend of the hook and palmered forward to give a sparse effect.

Nymphs



Pheasant Tail Nymph (Natural) - Dubbed Thorax


Pheasant Tail Nymph (Black) - Dubbed Thorax


Pheasant Tail Nymph (Olive) - Dubbed Thorax


Pheasant Tail Nymph (Tan) - Dubbed Thorax


Euro Style Pheasant Tail


Frenchie


Beadhead Hares Ear


Buckskin Nymph


Egan's Red Dart


Hares Ear Variant


Hot Wire Nymph


Flashback Little Gray May


Walt's Worm


Walt's Sexy Worm


Utah Killer Bug


Big Horn Nymph

Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Kennebago #1 through #6


Kennebago #1
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Brown over white bucktail

Kennebago #2
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Black over yellow bucktail

Kennebago #3
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Red over white bucktail

Kennebago #4
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Black over white bucktail

Kennebago #5
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Red over yellow bucktail

Kennebago #6
Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Body: Flat Silver Tinsel
Wing: Green over white bucktail

Depth Ray #1 & 2 Streamers



Depth Ray #1

Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Tail: Orange polar bear
Butt: Black wool
Body: Flat silver tinsel
Throat: Yellow hackle fibers
Wing: Fluorescent green ray wool, over which is black bucktail


Depth Ray #2

Hook: Streamer
Thread: Black
Tail: Lemon wood duck
Butt: Fluorescent orange floss
Body: Flat silver tinsel
Throat: Orange polar bear
Wing: Fluorescent green ray wool, over which is black bucktail

Tying note: Bucktail substituted for polar bear

Black Nosed Dace (Variant)


Black Nosed Dace (Variant)

Hook - Streamer or Nymph
Thread - Black
Tag/Tail - Red Thread
Body - Twisted silver wire
Wing - Brown over black over white bucktail


Jersey Herd (Variant)


Jersey Herd

Hook: Long Shank
Thread : Black
Tail : Peacock herl
Under body : Tying thread or floss
Body : Copper colored tinsel
Rib : Copper wire, optional
Back : Peacock herl
Beard Hackle : Hot orange cock
Head : Peacock herl

Tying Note - This variation is a twisted copper wire body insread of copper tinsel

Originally the body was made from a tin foil milk bottle top
Creator of this trout fly: Tom Ivens (1950s)
Country of origin for this trout fly: England
This trout fly is designed to be fished on Still Water 

Teeny Nymph

Natural Pheasant Tail

Tan / Olive / Red Pheasant Tail

Black Pheasant Tail

Teeny Nymph

Hook - Nymph/Wet Style
Thread - To match pheasant tail
Body/Legs - Pheasant tail


Additional Info

http://tenkaratalk.com/2015/05/jim-teeny-on-the-teeny-nymph/

March 1st Trout Open


Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Red Squirrel Silver Body Picket Pin


This is a Don Bastian variation of an old standard.




Red Squirrel Silver Body Picket Pin (RSP)

Thread: Danville Flymaster 6/0 Brown 
Hook: Size #6 – #10 4x long.
Tail: Brown schlappen fibers or hen hackle
Rib: Oval silver tinsel
Body: Flat silver tinsel
Hackle: Brown schlappen or hen fibers
Wing: Red squirrel. Fox squirrel was used on these. 
Head: Peacock herl. Use two strands; winding two at once gets the job done faster, but moreover, two strands of peacock herl are twice as strong as one. Add a drop of head cement before winding the herl.

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Bluegill Bully Spiders


Hook: Wet fly
Thread: Black
Weight: Lead or lead free wire at bend of hook
Body: Chenille
Legs: Rubber legs

Spiders for the Bluegills


Hook: Dry fly
Thread: White
Tail & Legs: Rubber legs
Body: Foam strip

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Knekestorparen




Knekestorparen



Hook: wet fly

Thread: black
Body: white-tipped turkey tail
Hackle: black hen


From the internet


This fly was born in the 60s at the still water in the highlands of Småland in Sweden. One of the water, where the fly later came to harvest greatest triumphs, was called Knekestorp - and the fly has therefore in the immediate circle of friends come to be called just "Knekestorparen".

Split Tails

There are probably as many ways to split tails as there are tyers (thread ball, dubbing ball, thread tag, hockley method etc) but here is a simple method using UV resin to split tails and keep them split. After splitting the tail fibers, apply a tiny drop of uv resin and cure using your uv light to set the postition of the tails. Continue tying the rest of the fly.



Spruce Fly

Back in 1918 the Spruce was originally called the Godfrey Badger Hackle or Godfrey Special after a Mr. Godfrey to whom the pattern is now credited.
Variations
The most original dressing of the Spruce is tied on a regular streamer hook with red wool (1/4) and peacock (3/4) body with splayed wings (E.H. Rosborough). This, and the version illustrated are sometimes referred to as the Light Spruce. A Dark Spruce variation replaces the silver badger hackles with golden badger or furnace. The pattern can also include a silver tag and a head over wrapped with red thread.

Light Spruce - Splayed Wings


Dark Spruce - Splayed Wings

Light Spruce

Head: Black
Tail: 4-5 Peacock sword fibers, about a half an inch long when dressed on an average sized hook (regular-length hooks should be used for this fly)

Body: Rear quarter is red wool, not picked out, but built up toward the peacock. Front three quarters is wound with peacock herl, rather heavily dressed.
Throat: A silver badger hackle, wound on as a collar, fairly bushy, applied after the wing has been put on.
Wing: Two silver badger hackle tips, tied on back to back so that they splay out to form a V, extending beyond the end if the tail.

Originally, the fly was called the Godfrey Special or Godfrey Badger Hackle


Dark Spruce

Head: Black
Tail: 4-5 Peacock sword fibers, about a half an inch long when dressed on an average sized hook (regular-length hooks should be used for this fly)
Body: Rear quarter is red wool, not picked out, but built up toward the peacock. Front three quarters is wound with peacock herl, rather heavily dressed.

Throat: A furnace hackle, wound on as a collar, fairly bushy, applied after the wing has been put on.
Wing: Two furnace hackle tips, tied on back to back so that they splay out to form a V, extending beyond the end if the tail. (I substituted brown hackle)

Reference: Streamers & Bucktails The Big Fish Flies by Joseph D Bates JR



Silver Spruce - Splayed Wings

Head: Black

Tail: 4-5 Peacock sword fibers, about a half an inch long when dressed on an average sized hook (regular-length hooks should be used for this fly)
Body: Rear quarter is silver tinsel, not picked out, but built up toward the peacock. Front three quarters is wound with peacock herl, rather heavily dressed.
Throat: A silver badger hackle, wound on as a collar, fairly bushy, applied after the wing has been put on.
Wing: Two silver badger hackle tips, tied on back to back so that they splay out to form a V, extending beyond the end if the tail.

Spruce Flies as tied today (non splayed wings)


Light


Dark